Chimney & Fireplace FAQs

Chimney cleaning is the removal of soot, creosote, ash and debris from the inside of your chimney, including the flue (the passage smoke travels through), the smoke chamber, the smoke shelf and the firebox. A technician uses brushes and rods sized to your flue, along with a high-powered vacuum, so the dust stays contained and does not end up in your living room.

The goal is simple: give smoke and gases a clear, clean path out of your home and remove the flammable buildup that collects every time you burn a fire.

Every fire leaves deposits behind. The most important one is creosote, a flammable residue that builds up on the inside of the flue. Too much creosote raises the risk of a chimney fire, and heavy buildup or debris can narrow the flue so smoke and carbon monoxide do not vent properly.

Regular cleaning also helps your fireplace draw better, reduces smoky and burnt odors, and gives a technician the chance to spot small problems, like a cracked flue tile or a missing cap, before they become expensive repairs.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 211) recommends that chimneys, fireplaces and vents be inspected at least once a year and cleaned whenever the inspection shows it is needed. As a practical guide, the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) suggests cleaning once there is about 1/8 inch of sooty buildup in the flue, or sooner if there is any glazed creosote.

Homes that burn wood often, burn unseasoned wood, or use a wood stove or insert usually need cleaning more often than homes that light a few fires a year. If you're not sure, a yearly check is the safest habit.

A typical visit follows these steps:

• We protect the area around your fireplace with drop cloths and set up a vacuum to control dust.
• We check the firebox, damper and visible parts of the chimney.
• We brush the flue from the bottom, the top, or both, depending on your system and roof access.
• We clean the smoke chamber, smoke shelf and firebox and remove the debris.
• We walk you through what we saw, show you photos when possible, and point out anything that needs attention.

We explain any recommendation before doing additional work, so there are no surprises.

Most standard cleanings of a single-flue fireplace take about one to two hours. Heavier creosote buildup, multiple flues, wood stoves or inserts that need to be pulled out, tall chimneys, or difficult roof access can add time. We'll give you a time estimate when we confirm your appointment.

It shouldn't. Professional cleaning uses drop cloths around the hearth and a high-powered vacuum that keeps soot and dust under control while we work. The goal is to leave your home as clean as we found it, with the debris removed and the work area tidied up before we leave.

A few simple steps help:

• Don't use the fireplace for at least 24 hours before the visit so the ashes and flue are cool.
• Clear a path to the fireplace and move furniture, rugs and decorations a few feet away from the hearth.
• Remove items from the mantel if they could be bumped.
• Keep pets and children in another room while we work.
• If we need roof access, make sure the gate is unlocked and the area near the house is clear.

In most cases, yes. If the cleaning goes as expected and we don't find a safety issue, you can usually use your fireplace the same day. If we find damage, such as cracked flue tiles, a missing liner or a blockage we couldn't clear, we'll explain the problem and tell you clearly if you should stop using the fireplace until it's repaired.

Common signs include:

• Smoke coming back into the room, or fires that are hard to start and keep going
• A strong, smoky or tar-like smell, especially on hot or humid days
• Black, flaky or shiny tar-like deposits inside the firebox or flue
• Debris, soot or small pieces of tile falling into the firebox
• Animal noises or nesting material
• It has been more than a year since your last inspection

If you notice any of these, call us at 469-960-2007 and we'll help you decide what your chimney needs.

For most homeowners who use their fireplace, yes. A professional cleaning removes buildup that you can't safely reach yourself, and it comes with a trained look at parts of the system you can't see. That inspection is often where the real value is: finding a small crack, a deteriorating crown or a failing cap early usually costs far less than fixing water damage or a damaged flue later.

Climbing on a roof and working in a sooty flue also carries real risk. Leaving it to a professional keeps you safe and gets the job done properly.

A chimney inspection is a structured check of your chimney and fireplace system to confirm it's sound, free of blockages and safe to use. A technician looks at the firebox, damper, smoke chamber, flue liner, crown, cap, flashing and exterior masonry, and notes any damage, buildup or code concerns.

An inspection tells you what condition your chimney is in. Cleaning removes buildup. The two often happen at the same visit, but they are different services.

At least once a year, according to NFPA 211. This applies whether you burn wood or gas and whether you use the fireplace often or rarely. You should also have it inspected after a chimney fire, a severe storm, hail, an earthquake or any event that could damage it, and whenever you change the type of appliance or fuel you use.

During a standard inspection we:

• Check the firebox, damper, smoke chamber and the parts of the flue we can see
• Look for creosote buildup, blockages and signs of water entry
• Inspect the exterior: crown, cap, flashing, brick and mortar
• Check clearances to combustible materials where they're accessible
• Explain what we found in plain English and recommend next steps, if any

Depending on the situation, we may use a camera to see further inside the flue.

The NFPA 211 standard describes three levels of inspection:

• Level 1: A check of the readily accessible parts of the chimney, exterior and interior, and the connected appliance. It's appropriate for a system that's in regular use, hasn't changed and has no known problems.
• Level 2: Everything in Level 1, plus accessible areas such as attics, crawlspaces and basements, and a video scan of the inside of the flue. It's recommended when something has changed or happened (see the next question).
• Level 3: Used only when a serious hazard is suspected and can't be confirmed any other way. It may require removing parts of the chimney or building, such as drywall or a chimney crown, to reach concealed areas.

A Level 2 inspection is recommended when:

• You're buying or selling a home
• You've had a chimney fire, or think you may have had one
• A storm, hail, lightning, earthquake or vehicle impact may have damaged the chimney
• You're changing fuel type (for example, wood to gas) or replacing or relining the appliance
• The system isn't working properly and a Level 1 check can't explain why

It's strongly recommended. A general home inspector usually takes only a quick look at the chimney and may not check the inside of the flue. A Level 2 chimney inspection with a camera scan can uncover cracked flue tiles, missing liners, water damage or previous fire damage that would be expensive to fix after you move in. Knowing about these issues before closing can help you negotiate repairs or price.

Yes, but heavy soot and creosote can hide cracks and damage, which limits what an inspector can see. If the flue has significant buildup, we may recommend cleaning first so the inspection is accurate. Many homeowners schedule both together, since it's the most efficient way to get a clean chimney and a clear picture of its condition.

We explain exactly what we found, show you photos or video when we can, and tell you how serious it is. Some issues are minor and can wait. Others mean you shouldn't use the fireplace until they're fixed. We'll give you a written estimate for any recommended repair, and you decide what you want to do. We won't start additional work without your approval.

A Level 1 inspection typically takes about 30 minutes to an hour. A Level 2 inspection with a camera scan, attic access and a written report usually takes longer, often one to two hours, depending on the chimney's height, number of flues and access.

We'll walk you through our findings in person and share photos where possible. If you need a written report, for example for a home sale, an insurance claim or your own records, please mention it when you book so we can confirm what will be included.

The price depends on your chimney, so we don't post a one-size-fits-all number. Instead, we give you a free estimate and confirm the price with you before any work begins. Call or text 469-960-2007 or request a free estimate online and tell us about your fireplace, and we'll give you a clear quote.

The main factors are:

• The type of system: open masonry fireplace, factory-built fireplace, wood stove, insert or gas appliance
• The number of flues
• The chimney's height and how easy it is to reach the roof
• How much creosote has built up, and whether there's glazed creosote that needs special treatment
• Whether a stove or insert needs to be removed to clean the flue
• Whether an inspection report or camera scan is added

Your quote will spell out exactly what's included, so you'll know before the visit whether a visual inspection, camera scan or written report is part of the service. If something isn't included and you want it, just ask and we'll add it to your estimate.

We confirm your price before we start. If we find something during the visit that needs extra work, such as a repair, a cap replacement or heavy glazed creosote, we explain it and give you a separate price. Nothing extra is done without your approval, and you pay only after the job is completed.

Yes. Call or text 469-960-2007, or fill out our free estimate form. Tell us what kind of fireplace or stove you have, how often you use it, when it was last serviced and any problems you've noticed. Photos help too.

Height can affect the price because taller chimneys take more time, may need longer equipment and can require extra safety setup on the roof. Two-story homes, steep roofs and tall exterior chimneys are common examples. We'll take this into account in your estimate.

Usually, yes. Each flue is a separate passage that has to be cleaned and checked. Many homes have one chimney housing two or more flues, for example one for a fireplace and one for a furnace or water heater. We'll confirm how many flues you have and include them in your quote.

From time to time we may run special offers, often before the fall burning season. Any current promotion will be posted on our website, or you can ask when you call or text 469-960-2007.

You pay after the job is completed. Nothing is charged up front. We'll confirm the payment options available to you when you book, so you can plan ahead.

Absolutely. We'd rather you know the price before you commit. Request your free estimate by phone, text or our online form. There's no obligation to book.

Smoke spilling into the room usually means the chimney isn't drawing properly. Common causes include:

• A closed or partly closed damper
• A cold flue (warm it up by holding a lit, rolled-up newspaper near the open damper before lighting the fire)
• Creosote buildup, a nest or other blockage in the flue
• A house that's too airtight, or kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans pulling air down the chimney
• A chimney that's too short or a flue that's the wrong size for the fireplace

Safety first: If smoke keeps coming into your home, stop using the fireplace and have it inspected. Smoke spillage can also mean carbon monoxide is entering your living space.

A strong, smoky or asphalt-like smell is usually caused by creosote deposits. It often gets worse in hot, humid weather, which is common in North Texas summers, and when air flows down the chimney. Other causes include water inside the chimney, which can create a musty smell, or an animal that got trapped in the flue.

A cleaning removes the source of most odors. A top-sealing damper or a properly fitted cap can help reduce downdrafts that push the smell into your home.

Scratching, chirping or fluttering usually means birds, squirrels, raccoons or other animals have gotten in. Chimney swifts, a protected migratory bird, sometimes nest in chimneys during the warmer months and can't be removed while nesting. Rattling or banging can come from a loose cap, damper or flashing in the wind.

Important: A loud roaring sound, like a freight train, along with popping or crackling and dense smoke, can be a chimney fire. Get everyone out of the house and call 911.

Water usually gets into a chimney through:

• A missing or damaged chimney cap
• A cracked or deteriorated chimney crown (the concrete slab on top of the chimney)
• Failed or poorly installed flashing where the chimney meets the roof
• Cracked bricks or missing mortar joints
• Porous masonry that absorbs rain

Leaks often get worse over time and can damage the flue, ceilings and walls. The sooner the source is found, the simpler the repair usually is.

Water in the firebox means rain is getting into the chimney from above or through the masonry. The most common causes are a missing or damaged cap, a cracked crown or leaking flashing. Water mixed with soot can also leave dark stains and a musty smell. Have it inspected soon, because ongoing moisture damages the flue liner, damper and masonry.

White, powdery stains on brick are called efflorescence. They form when water moves through the masonry and carries salts to the surface, leaving them behind as it evaporates. The stains themselves are mostly cosmetic, but they're a sign that water is getting into the chimney. It's worth finding and fixing the source of the moisture.

Creosote is a black or brown residue that forms when smoke, vapor and unburned wood particles condense on the cooler walls of the flue. It builds up in three stages:

• Stage 1: Dry, flaky soot that brushes away easily
• Stage 2: Crunchy, tar-like deposits that are harder to remove
• Stage 3: Shiny, hardened glaze that's very difficult to remove and highly flammable

Creosote is the main fuel for chimney fires. Burning dry, seasoned wood, giving fires enough air and cleaning the chimney regularly all help keep it under control.

A chimney liner is the protective inner layer of the flue. It's made of clay tile, stainless steel or a cast-in-place material. The liner contains heat and corrosive byproducts of combustion, protects the surrounding brick and nearby wood framing, and keeps the flue the right size for your appliance so it drafts properly.

A cracked, damaged or missing liner is a serious safety concern and should be evaluated before you keep using the fireplace.

A chimney cap sits on top of the flue and does several jobs:

• Keeps rain out, which protects the liner, damper and masonry
• Keeps birds, squirrels and other animals from nesting inside
• Keeps leaves and debris from blocking the flue
• Its mesh screen helps stop sparks and embers from landing on your roof or yard
• Can help reduce downdrafts caused by wind

For the cost, it's one of the most useful parts of a chimney system.

Watch for:

• Cracked, loose or missing bricks, or crumbling mortar
• A cracked crown or a rusted, damaged or missing cap
• Water stains on ceilings or walls near the chimney
• White staining (efflorescence) on the brick
• Pieces of flue tile in the firebox
• A rusted damper or firebox
• A chimney that leans or separates from the house
• Wallpaper or paint peeling near the chimney

If you notice any of these, avoid using the fireplace until it's been inspected. If you ever suspect carbon monoxide (headache, dizziness, nausea or a CO alarm going off), leave the house right away and call 911.

In most cases, yes. Many common problems, such as a cracked crown, a damaged cap, leaking flashing, loose bricks or deteriorated mortar, can be repaired without rebuilding the chimney. Severe structural damage or a chimney that's leaning may need a partial or full rebuild. We'll inspect it, explain your options and give you a clear estimate before any repair work.

Masonry repair is any work on the brick, stone, block or mortar of your chimney. It can include replacing cracked or spalling bricks, repointing mortar joints, repairing or rebuilding the crown, and, in more serious cases, rebuilding part of the chimney above the roofline. Good masonry repair keeps water out and keeps the chimney structurally sound.

Repointing, also called tuckpointing, is the process of removing deteriorated mortar from between the bricks and replacing it with fresh mortar. Mortar wears out faster than brick, especially in climates with heavy rain, hot summers and occasional hard freezes like North Texas. Repointing restores the chimney's strength and helps stop water from getting in.

Replace your chimney cap if it's rusted through, bent, loose or missing, if the mesh screen is torn or clogged, or if it no longer covers the flue properly. Caps are often damaged by storms, hail, falling branches or simply age. If you see animals getting in or water in the firebox, the cap is one of the first things to check.

It depends on the type and extent of damage. Minor cracks in some clay tile liners can sometimes be repaired with specialized resurfacing products. More serious damage, or a liner that's missing entirely, usually calls for a new stainless steel liner or a cast-in-place liner. A camera inspection is the best way to see the liner's condition and decide on the right fix.

Cracked or crumbling bricks let water into the masonry. Water then expands and contracts with temperature changes, which causes more cracking and spalling (the surface of the brick flaking off). Over time this can loosen the chimney's structure. Damaged bricks can usually be cut out and replaced, and the surrounding mortar repointed, before the problem spreads.

• Install a properly fitted chimney cap
• Keep the crown in good shape and repair cracks early
• Have the flashing checked, especially after storms and roof work
• Repair damaged bricks and mortar joints
• Ask about a breathable, vapor-permeable water repellent made for masonry chimneys
• Have the chimney inspected once a year so small issues are caught early

• Burn only dry, seasoned hardwood
• Remove ashes regularly, leaving about an inch as a base if you burn wood often
• Store ashes in a metal container with a tight lid, outside and away from the house; ashes can stay hot for days
• Keep the damper closed when the fireplace isn't in use
• Use a fireplace screen or glass doors
• Look up the flue with a flashlight for signs of heavy buildup or debris
• Test your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms

Yes. Late summer and early fall are the best times to book. You'll have your chimney checked before the first cold snap, and you'll have time to make any repairs before you need the fireplace. Appointments are often easier to schedule before the busy fall and winter season.

Many older chimneys are perfectly safe once they've been inspected and any problems are repaired. Older homes, however, sometimes have unlined chimneys, deteriorated mortar or liners that were never designed for today's appliances. A Level 2 inspection is a good starting point for an older chimney, especially if you've just moved in or don't know its history.

Call or text 469-960-2007, or request a free estimate online. We'll ask a few questions about your fireplace or stove, give you a quote and find a time that works for you.

No. You pay after the job is completed and we've walked you through the work. Your price is confirmed in your free estimate before we start.

Yes. All of our work is done by appointment so a technician arrives prepared with the right equipment for your chimney and has enough time to do the job properly.

Sometimes. It depends on our schedule and your location. If you need help quickly, call us at 469-960-2007 and we'll do our best to fit you in.

If you have smoke in your home, a suspected chimney fire or a carbon monoxide alarm going off, leave the house and call 911 first.

We serve homeowners across the Dallas–Fort Worth area, including Dallas, Fort Worth, Arlington, Plano, Frisco, Irving, McKinney, Garland, Richardson, Grand Prairie, Carrollton and Lewisville. See our service areas page, and if your city isn't listed, call or text us your ZIP code and we'll let you know.

Yes. Chimney Care is licensed, insured and certified. If you'd like to see proof of insurance or our certification details before your appointment, just ask when you call or text 469-960-2007.

Yes. Our services are focused on homeowners: houses, townhomes and other residential properties with wood-burning fireplaces, gas fireplaces, wood stoves and fireplace inserts.

Our technician will introduce themselves, ask about any problems you've noticed, and explain what they're going to do. They'll protect the area around your fireplace before starting, keep the work area clean, and walk you through their findings at the end, including photos when possible. Feel free to ask questions at any point.

Yes. Just call or text 469-960-2007 as early as you can, and we'll find a new time that works for you.

Usually an adult needs to be home to let the technician in, show them the fireplace and go over the results at the end. If that's difficult, let us know when you book and we'll talk about options.

Call or text 469-960-2007, email chimneycarespecialist@gmail.com, or use the contact form on our website. We'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Use our free estimate form or call or text 469-960-2007. It helps to tell us your ZIP code, the type of fireplace or stove you have, the last time it was serviced and any issues you've noticed. Photos of the fireplace and the top of the chimney help us give a more accurate quote.

Yes. Gas burns cleaner than wood, but gas fireplaces and gas logs still produce byproducts, and their venting can become blocked by nests, debris or deteriorated parts. NFPA 211 calls for an annual inspection of gas venting systems too. Gas logs, burners and glass may also need cleaning to work properly and look their best.

If you smell gas, don't light anything or use switches. Leave the house and call your gas company or 911 from outside.

Wood stoves usually need more frequent cleaning. They burn efficiently and hot, but when they're run low and slow they can produce a lot of creosote. The stovepipe, flue, baffle and firebox all need attention. Depending on the setup, the stove pipe may need to be removed and reinstalled during cleaning.

A fireplace insert is a closed box, usually wood, gas or pellet, that fits inside an existing masonry fireplace to make it more efficient. Inserts should be connected to a properly sized liner that runs the full height of the chimney. They need regular inspection and cleaning, and sometimes the insert has to be pulled out to clean the flue and smoke chamber behind it.

Often, yes, by installing gas logs or a gas insert. Before converting, the chimney and flue should be inspected (a Level 2 inspection is recommended when changing fuel type) and thoroughly cleaned, since leftover creosote can cause odors and problems. The gas work itself must be done by a licensed professional following local codes.

Yes. Pellet stoves produce fly ash that collects in the venting, especially in horizontal sections and elbows. Follow your stove manufacturer's maintenance schedule, and have the vent inspected and cleaned regularly so it stays clear.

Late summer and early fall are ideal. North Texas fireplace season is short but busy, usually from November through February, and many homeowners call at the first cold front. Booking earlier means more appointment choices and time for any repairs before you light your first fire.

Yes. Even if you burn just a few fires, an annual inspection is still recommended. Chimneys that sit unused can collect nests, leaves and debris, and storms and heat can damage the cap, crown and flashing whether or not you light a fire.

Yes. Hail can dent or crack caps and chase covers, high winds can loosen caps and flashing, and heavy rain can find any weak spot in the crown or masonry. After a major storm, it's a good idea to have the top of your chimney checked. If you're filing a roof claim, mention the chimney too.

They can. When water soaks into brick or a cracked crown and then freezes, it expands and can cause cracking and spalling. North Texas doesn't freeze often, but hard freezes do happen. Keeping water out of the masonry with a good cap, crown and flashing is the best protection.

Texas counties issue burn bans during dry conditions, but they usually apply to outdoor burning. Rules vary by county and city, so if you're unsure whether a ban affects you, check your county's website or call your local fire department.

Burn dry, seasoned hardwood such as oak, hickory, pecan or ash. Seasoned wood has usually been split and dried for six months to a year and has a moisture content under about 20%. Wet or green wood smokes more, burns cooler and creates more creosote.

• Trash, cardboard, wrapping paper or magazines
• Painted, stained or pressure-treated wood, plywood or particle board
• Christmas trees or large amounts of pine needles, which can flare up quickly
• Charcoal, which produces large amounts of carbon monoxide indoors
• Gasoline, lighter fluid or other accelerants

Let the ashes cool, then scoop them into a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. Store the container outside, on a non-combustible surface, at least 10 feet away from your home, deck and anything that can burn. Ashes can stay hot enough to start a fire for several days, so never put them in a paper bag, cardboard box or plastic trash can.

Yes. If you have a fireplace, stove or any fuel-burning appliance, install smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms on every level of your home and near sleeping areas. Test them monthly and replace batteries as recommended.

Carbon monoxide is invisible and odorless. Symptoms can include headache, dizziness, weakness, nausea and confusion. If you suspect CO exposure or your alarm sounds, get everyone outside into fresh air right away and call 911.

Signs of an active chimney fire include a loud roaring sound, popping or cracking noises, dense smoke and a strong, hot smell. Sometimes flames or sparks shoot from the top of the chimney. Some chimney fires are slow-burning and quiet and go unnoticed until an inspection finds the damage.

If you suspect a chimney fire, get everyone out of the house and call 911. Afterward, don't use the fireplace again until a Level 2 inspection confirms it's safe.

No. Never leave a fire unattended. Before going to bed or leaving home, make sure the fire is completely out and the ashes are cool. Keep the screen or glass doors closed while a fire is burning, and keep children and pets at a safe distance from the hearth.

Keep anything that can burn, including furniture, rugs, curtains, stockings, books and holiday decorations, at least 3 feet from the fireplace opening. Remove decorations from the mantel and hearth before lighting a fire.